It's history with the nasty bits left in! Want to know: The rules of the orful Olympic sport of shin-kicking? Why locals like toob cheese in the river? Which of Shakespeare's characters was baked in a pie? Plot your path to the past with the frightful full-colour map — pay your respects at the playwright's grave, then brave spooky Sheep Street, home of an awful axeman, a weird witch and possibly the most haunted house in England.